My first afternoon in Sarajevo was quiet. I met the Next Level Bosnia team members, took a nap after an unreasonably long trip and hang out at the hotel terrace with a wonderful view of the city. I was told that the hills where full of snipers during the war, firing at the city. There are still minefields up there so hiking locations should be carefully chosen. A local told me today that he had heard an astute saying: “the Ottomans tried to break our bodies, the Austro-Hungarians tried to break our spirit”. A city caught between empires.